Read between The Lines People!

Last week Andrew Cuomo opened his mouth to talk about his feelings in regards to Conservatives...

“Who are they? Are they these extreme conservatives who are right-to-life, pro-assault-weapon, anti-gay? Is that who they are? Because if that’s who they are and if they are the extreme conservatives, they have no place in the state of New York, because that’s not who New Yorkers are.”

Being that these beliefs describe almost all Conservatives, and are actually not the slightest bit extreme, Conservatives responded with predictable outrage.

"Pro-assault-weapon" simply means you support the Second Amendment's original purpose; to balance the power of government that also has "assault weapons."  Is Andy giving up New York's assault weapons?  Didn't think so.

Do We have a Gun Violence Problem?

Or do we have a Liberal violence problem?
 
The Denver metro area is reeling from yet another "shooting" at a local high school.  The "shooter" shot a student in the head before taking his own life.
 
My thoughts and prayers are with Claire Davis who is currently in a coma, her family, and her friends.  I cannot imagine what they are going through at this time.
 
That said, we have to understand why this is happening and I'm taking note of some similarities between these "shooters."  Many of them have direct connections to Liberal organizations or identify strongly with Liberal ideas.  Ironic since Liberals will quickly blame Conservatives and Conservative groups for the violence--which in turn only further incentivizes it as a means to vilify Conservatives (yes, this Liberal-attempted-murderer even supported gun control).

The More Things Change

"Gun Control" is Violence...

...and promises of "gun control" are threats of violence.  Behind every gun control advocate's argument is a desire to harm millions for the supposed goal of saving hundreds.  The ones that know this have a hidden agenda that they dare not share for it will expose their evil nature.

I put "gun control" in quotes because the end-game isn't reasonable restrictions on firearm ownership but rather an all-out prohibition or disarmament.  Liberals have made this perfectly clear in places in Washington DC, New York City, Chicago, etc... where they use taxpayer dollars to prohibit taxpayers from utilizing their sacred, Second Amendment protected, right to keep and bear arms.  A right that has been re-affirmed by every high court that has ruled on the matter including the recent Heller case.

In spite of promises that disarmament will prevent violence, here are the reasons the exact opposite is true...

Chief Gun Grabber Exposed

Something phenomenal happened this week and was mostly missed in the media (as usual):  the leader of the statist effort to ban guns was honest.  No, not in what he said, but what he did.

"New York City Mayor MichaelBloomberg doubled down this week on his call for more gun control following theColorado massacre – suggesting police strike until additional laws are passed."

Now, let’s back up for a second...  We are told by gun control advocates that their agenda is necessary even if it saves just one life.  We are told that the cost of our Second Amendment isn’t reasonable if it unjustly takes just one life.  Obviously this is part of an impossible test for gun rights created for one purpose; completely eliminating private gun ownership.

So how many people would be robbed, raped, and murdered in Bloomberg’s nation-wide police strike?

Opportunity...

...that’s how the Left sees tragedies like those that happened Friday morning in Aurora. 

These active shooter events are emotionally exhausting.  After the grief comes anger.  The most frustrating aspect is the vacuum of personal safety created by strict gun laws, an incompetent government that promises us safety but constantly fails to provide it, and an army of useful idiots (Century Theatres [owned by Cinemark] has a no guns policy even for lawful concealed carry permit holders).  And as if the actual shooting wasn’t bad enough, the coalition of gun-grabbers and government “officials” can’t even let the blood dry before they start using this as an opportunity.

Gun Control

Some say that gun control is broken, but that actually isn’t true.  Gun control has done exactly what it was intended to do—disarm the law-abiding public (and nothing more).  A criminal who is about to commit a violent crime with a gun doesn’t care about gun control laws to include magazine restrictions, barrel lengths, types of weapons, pistol grips, bayonet lugs, or actions.  A CRIMINAL DOES NOT CARE.  And thus, gun control does nothing to limit crime while the unintended consequences (empowering criminals) far outweigh any benefits.  This is a well-known and documented fact which is why support for gun control has dramatically decreased in the United States while the agenda of Leftist gun-grabbers becomes more apparent.

Handgun Selection: Overview

I am posting this advice as I have been asked by several people in recent weeks for advice on purchasing their first firearm. The reader should assume there is always more detail and information available than what is contained in this post—I am going to try and keep this as short and to the point as possible but it is a lot of information.

Anyone interesting in getting introduced to firearms should take classes from a qualified instructor. The local gun shop can be a great resource and the NRA is also be helpful.

If there was ever a time in the history of the United States to own a gun it is today. Right now. The idea that a weapon will be made available to you, in the event of emergency, and you’ll be able to use it is limited to Hollywood movies and fiction. The threats to our Second Amendment rights are numerous and growing.

The handgun (pistol) is the most versatile self-defense (SD) weapon available. If you can only own one gun, or are getting into guns because you want a SD weapon, the handgun should be first on your list. By no means should you stop with handguns either, but this post will deal only with handgun selection and it will be limited to semi-automatic handguns as they are the most capable for SD.

A Sig Sauer P226R in three different roles; home defense, sidearm, and concealed.

Handgun Selection: Part I Ammunition

The ammunition that a handgun fires, called a “round” in the singular, is the most important variable in how capable the weapon is. There are no “high/low” switches on firearms, and frankly, no reasonable person would use such a switch. In a SD scenario the goal is to stop the threat as quickly and efficiently as possible.

Various .40SW loads; 135gr JHP, 165gr JHP, 165gr BJHP, and 180gr FMJ

Handgun Selection: Part II Action

The action of a weapon is also critically important in selecting a handgun. The action determines how a weapon is fired and involves the trigger, safety(ies), and sometimes a de-cocker.

Many people will get confused when considering the action of a gun and assume that a gun that lacks external safeties is less safe. It is actually the operator who determines how safe a gun is and not the mechanics of the weapon. Alternatively, the presence of an external safety doesn’t make the gun safer either as many people have accidentally shot themselves with guns that have external safeties.

Once an action or “platform” is selected, users should try to stick to that platform. This decreases the need to train to different platforms which would increase confusion and decrease the effectiveness of muscle memory once the adrenalin kicks in. In short: keep it simple.

While there are advantages and disadvantages it is always the shooter who must train to that action and be safe with it. Here are my thoughts on the most popular actions available...

Handgun Selection: Part III Size

This is also where things get super confusing as there are many choices. Most major handgun manufacturers will make models in the following sizes: full, compact, subcompact, and pocket. Among these sizes are “single stack” (single row of rounds in a magazine) and “double stack” (two rows of rounds in the magazine).

To make this easier, rule out the subcompact and pocket sized guns right off the top. Unless you have very small hands and cannot handle a larger gun, don’t even consider these as a SD gun. It’s worth noting that these sized guns do have a role for shooters, but they are not good primary SD guns because of their limitations (capacity and accuracy [shorter barrel]).

I would also eliminate single stack guns for the capacity limitations.

Handgun Selection: Part V Manufacturers

The most important thing to consider in the brand department is the track record of quality. If you buy a gun that malfunctions when you need it, it becomes an expensive chunk of metal. Do not spend time on what looks cool or what special forces team x carried to kill Bin Laden (they carried P226s by the way :) ).

I find that manufacturers with military/LE contracts are the most invested in quality. Gun companies live and die on the basis of these contracts and not civilian sales. A company that loses a contract because of quality will have a serious black eye that will cost them dearly.

Handgun Selection: Part V Accessories

These are some things to think about in addition to buying the actual gun and what comes with it in the box.


Sights
I prefer night sights on my handguns. These are sights that glow in low light/no light and provide you with a sight picture in all conditions.

They are about $160 to add onto a gun after purchase or $100 if you can do it yourself (and they are hard to do—I have done them). It is best to buy a gun with these sights installed and properly zeroed.

Night sights have a 12 year life limited by the radioactive isotope (Tritium) that is used in them. Yes, that sounds scary, but it’s not. If buying a used gun or old stock, consider this lifespan. Most manufacturers will label the box with the born on date.

Sale!!!

Palmetto State Armory (PSA) is offering their "M4A1" with Aimpoint PRO for $999!  This is an awesome setup and an amazing price--perfect for new shooters or someone looking to pickup a carbine. 

The only thing I don't like is the BUIS and the buffer spring (black v. chrome).  These can be easily remedied!

The PRO itself is a $400 optic.  I was lucky to be able to pick one up on discount for around $375.  The mount screw is a little bulky but it doesn't bother me.


Couple of other things I like about this setup...  Barrel is Cold Hammer Forged (CHF), which produces more accurate barrels, and is made by Fabrique Nationale (FN) in South Carolina.  FN is a major defense contractor and has been making M16s and M4s for the services for many years.  I was once issued a FN M16A2 a long, long time ago.  Bolt and BCG specs are also impressive.

Sig Sauer Guide Rod Replacement

After searching high and low, and buying some hallow rods as a mistake, I have finally found the best Sig Sauer replacement guide rod out there (P239 shown in pic)...

Grayguns.com

They are a little pricey (everything Bruce & Co do is, and worth it), but these are the closest one can get to the original SIGARMS solid carbon steel guide rod that should still be shipping with new guns.  Beware of others that are duracoated--the finish will wear off with use.

The new polymer rods are a problem and such an idiotic place to try and save money!  A solid steel replace guide rod is a must have for any new Sig (if you need a how-to, please buy a Glock instead).

P226 Slide Lock Replacement

For some reason Sig Sauer introduced a new "short post" slide lock lever for the P226 about three years ago. Along with the introduction of this new part are new magazine followers with protruding lips.

The problem with this change is that low capacity P226 mags and older high capacity mags will not lock the slide back after the last round is fired. The usually comes up on boards as "my slide won't lock back" and can be diagnosed after eliminating the human factors; thumb discipline, weak wrist, etc. In addition, many believe the short post lever digs into the mag followers wearing them unnecessarily (I am in that group).

In my opinion this is a critical function as it lets the operator know a reload is required.  The last thing anyone wants is to hear "click" in a bad situation.

I have posted this fix to help anyone who may be in this situation.

I assume no liability for your actions!!! Proceed with caution!!!

 Determine If You Have This Issue

Find an older P226 magazine like this circa 2000 10 rounder.

Make a safe weapon. Remove the slide. Seat the magazine and observe the contact between the slide lock post and the magazine follower (yellow circle)...



If the magazine follower is making solid contact with the slide lock post, you do not have this issue. If you see a gap like the one in the picture you will need a new slide lock lever (or new mag followers) for the gun to be operational with that magazine.

Before Doing Anything
If your P226 was bought new and you are the original owner, your gun is under warranty. Contact Sig Sauer customer service. If you can get your gun to an armorer at Sig they will have you fixed up in about three weeks. When I did this in early 2009 on another P226, the work and part was free--I wasn't charged a cent (Sig knows they are causing some pain)! I have also heard that Sig is shipping mag followers out in lieu of a slide lever swap--I wouldn't accept this fix.

If you want to do the lever swap yourself, order a new P226 slide lock lever from Top Gun Supply. The part number is 34260120 (Anon in comments says Sig has changed the part number to 1200779 and TopGunSupply confirms.  It might be best to call before ordering to confirm.)

Doing the Swap
It's a good idea to have an armorer's guide and toolkit although this swap could be done without them and is relatively easy.

First, make a safe weapon and remove the slide. Rotate the disassembly lever forward and carefully remove it from the frame.

With the disassembly lever out, remove the breech block (locking insert) by gently pulling it upwards out of the frame. It should be loose and move freely. If it is not loose, do not force it! Add some CLP until it moves freely.  This can be the dirtiest part of the frame because it is so difficult to clean.

Using a punch or small screwdriver, without much force, push the trigger pivot pin to the right slowly.  You do not want to remove this pin completely...
  

The pivot pin should be past the slide lock lever but not past the trigger itself.

The old slide lock lever should come out freely.

A comparison of the new (left) and old (right) parts.  Note the notch and shorter length of the old part on the right.

Set the old part aside.  Insert the new slide lock lever to the left of the trigger (muzzle pointing away).  Push the trigger pivot pin back into place.

Insert the slide stop spring into the locking insert.

For the next step (probably the hardest part of the whole operation) you will need an appropriately sized screwdriver.  A screwdriver too big and you will scratch the frame, one too small and you may mess up the trigger pivot pin.

This is when being a sucker and over-paying for the armorer's toolkit works to your advantage.

The tricky part is getting the breech block (locking insert) into the frame.  The slide stop spring must be on top of the slide lock lever.  The slide lock lever must be all the way to the left side of the frame. 

There are notches in the trigger pivot pin that allow the breech block to be inserted.  With the screwdriver, slowly turn the trigger pivot pin until the block can be gently pushed into place.  Do not force the block in!

When the breech block is in, the disassembly lever channel should be a perfect circle without any overlap of the breech block.  If it doesn't look like the following picture, remove the block, turn the pin 180 degrees and try again.

Now the disassembly lever can be reinserted into the channel.  This too requires some finesse to keep from scratching the frame.  The lever has a lip on one end that can be used to manipulate the spring while it's being inserted.

Once done, using the same test mag as above, check the contact between the post and the magazine follower.

Reassemble the weapon and test the slide lock a few times.  A new slide lock lever can cause the release to be a little stiff the first few times--this is normal.

If you have any questions or anything to add, feel free to the use the comments!